2011 The Truth Behind The Ten Major Events In China'S Clothing Industry

1 true and false "international"

In March 16, 2011, CCTV program exposed the famous Italy.

Behind: in fact, the clothing industry, such as the brand of non foreign owned foreign brands such as couton, is a common phenomenon. For example, the famous American wedding dress brand "VERA WANG" was actually created by the Chinese, and even the familiar CATELO (crocodile) and other overseas brands.

Internationalized brand management not only depends on where the sales area is, but also how many links in its entire production and operation activities involve internationalization.

As a result, many people who support the brand of dal don believe that Chinese clothing brands have been striving to internationalize for many years, but most of them have finally become the producers of international brands.

However, the brand of Charles dinton can occupy a whole field in the field of high-end clothing. To a large extent, it is precisely because of its series of operations, such as product design, quality pursuit, terminal sales, visual communication, and so on, that it is difficult to survive in the high-end market with international reputation.

From another point of view, a group of so-called "fake foreign brands" represented by card Dun ton is also a practitioner of Chinese brand clothing towards true internationalization. With the increasing discourse power of Chinese garment industry, the so-called "fake foreign brand" will become a history.

2, "2012"

At the beginning of December 2011, the blog of "Vancl's incident" broke the news that the stock accumulation was very serious due to the "crazy expansion product line", and at present, the stock of dead stock was at least more than ten billion yuan.

The salary of personnel is at least 500 million yuan per year, and the accumulated deficit may exceed 2 billion yuan in 4 years.

Although van glitpin denied the above announcement, the company's recent situation is frequent.

As early as May this year, it was announced that it will go to the US IPO in the fourth quarter of this year. Originally, it was scheduled to submit the application document after November 21st, and it could not be carried out according to the timetable.

In addition, van customer's frequent exposure of layoffs, former president assistant Xu Xiaohui, former vice president Zhang Xiaojun and other high-level have left.

To add insult to injury, Wu Yun, the mastermind and vice president of the "all object" plotter, has left all the customers, and is rumoured to have entered the Jingdong mall.

Behind: the news about the listing of all customers as early as October this year has been heard. Recently, because of the divergence of valuations of the investors after the listing, the customers have not yet finalized the listing time.

In addition, the change of customers in the high-level structure has also aroused doubt in the industry.

In 2011, it is the year of the bottleneck of the development of the customer service. Whether it can survive or not is unknown.

At present, the mode of Chinese electric business is almost all "capital driven". This growth mode is not healthy. No matter whether the capital market will improve in the future, this mode needs to be radically changed.

From capital driven to business efficiency, revenue from electricity providers is not from investors, but from users. It comes from how much value it provides and how to control costs internally.

3 JEANSWEST house

In May 23, 2011, the Chinese and English signs of JEANSWEST building were hung on the external walls of the fourth teaching building of Tsinghua University. Another nameplate was hung on the wall to introduce the JEANSWEST brand.

In May 24th, a student from Tsinghua University took the "JEANSWEST building" nameplate on the outer wall of Tsinghua University's fourth teaching building with a cell phone. The photo was quickly reproduced on the Internet and aroused heated controversy: who has the qualification to name Tsinghua teaching building? After that, on the web site of the Tsinghua University education foundation, many Tsinghua school buildings including the Tsinghua University Software Institute, the biomedical Museum and the new Department of automotive engineering department clearly set the naming donation amount.

Among them, the highest naming fee is the ball hall. The naming donation amount needs 138 million yuan, which can be called the "x x ball club". The lowest naming fee is the Chinese Design Museum of Tsinghua University, with the naming donation amount of only 4 million yuan, it can be called "Tsinghua University * * China Design Museum".

The staff of Tsinghua University's Education Foundation explained that the building conditions were different, some of them had been built, others needed to be donated by funds and then built.

Behind: behind all these troubles, what can not be omitted is that the JEANSWEST building's external wall has a "JEANSWEST building", but there is a note beside it: JEANSWEST, as a leader in the casual wear market, always takes social responsibility as its mission, and spare no effort to give back to the society and contribute to the country's educational cause.

In fact, the naming of universities has precedents, such as the "shaifu building" in many areas, but these titles did not cause social revulsion.

"JEANSWEST building" has caused so much social controversy that it has to cause people in the clothing industry to ponder over who is going to stir up the clothing brand. Of course, the main focus of social controversy is "match each other".

Chinese clothing brand has made so much money and donated so much money, but it has not received due social recognition and social respect. Why?

In recent years, China's garment industry has made rapid progress. In various fashion shows, fashion week, fashion shows, people can see star models, neon and feather garments. The spectacle is amazing. Chinese clothing brands can go to the the Great Wall to show up, hold a press conference in the Great Hall of the people, and even in the top fashion Hall of France and Italy, there are Chinese clothing brands. However, the name of Chinese clothing brand can not reach the teaching building of Tsinghua University.

Why?

It is undeniable that Chinese clothing brands have made certain recognition in the clothing circles, but they still have a long way to go to cultivate the consumer culture at a larger level outside the circle.

4, the United States and the state of commerce are behind the scenes.

In October 2011, Smith Barney announced that it would stop e-commerce business.

In a statement, Smith Barney explained that the uncontrollable financial risk was the main reason, and the investment shortage was the key factor in the field of electronic commerce.

But the question is, why did the pformation of the electricity supplier, which was originally aimed at cost saving, eventually become a "gold trap"? Industry experts pointed out that lack of professional guidelines, all alone, is the key to causing the problem of cost out of control in the pformation of most traditional enterprises.

Behind: according to the announcement of the "back to power" announcement by the US state, the investment in e-commerce in the early days of the United States is mainly about personnel salaries, technology development costs, logistics and distribution costs, and advertising expenses. The total investment is more than about 60000000 yuan.

This phenomenon is not a case of the United States and many other traditional enterprises in the field of electricity business have similar experiences.

This is mainly because most of the traditional enterprises hope to fully retain their independence in the process of the pformation of the electricity supplier, but they lack the necessary technology and management accumulation to support the establishment of the electricity supplier mode. Therefore, blind investment and hard capital results are most likely to be around the wall, and the budget is constantly overspending.

5 Taobao mall to increase access threshold

On September 2011, at the Taobao mall business communication conference held in Hangzhou, Taobao mall revealed that a new round of management system upgrading was being launched. The annual fee charged to merchants in 2012 will be adjusted from the current 6000 yuan to 30 thousand yuan or 60 thousand yuan two stalls. Merchants will be adjusted from the current 10 thousand yuan to 10 thousand yuan to 150 thousand yuan as a deposit for service deposit.

This new regulation has aroused strong dissatisfaction among small and medium-sized businesses.

After that, Ma Yun made a slow move: the new annual fee standard will be implemented in January 1, 2012 for the sellers of Taobao stores settled after the new regulations are issued. For the sellers who have already checked in before the issuance of the new regulations, the annual fee will be postponed to October 2012 in 2012. That is, until September 30, 2012, businesses will still pay the annual fees according to the original rules, and the fees will be converted according to the month.

Behind: at the end of 2011, at the first China clothing conference, the speech guest of Taobao became the object of the day's media interviews because of Taobao's price increase. But when Zhou Junwei came to the stage to introduce his identity of a net, and only talked about a panning, not talking about Taobao, and after leaving the advertising, reporters immediately lost interest. Compared with last year's Taobao mall Zhang Yong's efforts to please the clothing entrepreneurs in China's clothing forum, Taobao now obviously overtakes many.

Su Huiyan, a senior analyst at Ai consulting, believes that the upgrading of Taobao mall's business management system is focused on strengthening the maintenance of platform trading order and protecting consumers' shopping experience.

"Consumers gradually change from cheap to quality and service.

The guarantee of commodity quality and the promotion of shopping service are not only the effective measures to attract and retain users, but also the core competitiveness of future competition.

In any case, as the mainstream producer of Chinese clothing industry, more attention is paid to the fate of most of the garment enterprises. Taobao's raise price can not be regarded as a bad thing for the large garment enterprises. But for the small and micro garment enterprises with Taobao as their livelihood, their coming is probably replanned.

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6 Dior chief designer competition

In February 25, 2011, the famous French clothing brand Christian Dior (Christine Dio) announced that John Galliano (John Galiano) had suspended all the duties of its chief designer because of alleging racial discrimination.

For a while, Dior's "killing" of garriano caused a great stir in the world's fashion industry.

Who has become the new chief designer of Dior has long been the focus of attention in the global fashion industry for a long time.

2012 during the spring and summer fashion week in Paris, Dior announced that it would formally appoint a new creative director within weeks.

It is reported that Dior has suspended negotiations with the most promising designer Marc Jacobs, and the two sides have reached a deadlock.

The focus of the dispute between Dior and Mark Jakob is that Mark Jakob hopes to join Dior in LV's design team. The LVMH Group believes that this will bring LV into an unfavorable situation. Phebe Philo, who was once thought to be able to take over LV, also said she would prefer to stay in CELINE. Therefore, once Mark Jacobs went to Dior, the position of creative director of LV became a problem.

Dior is looking for new candidates for creative director, including Wang Daren (Alexander Wang), Ralph Simon (Raf Simons) and Wu Jigang (Jason Wu).

Ricardo Tisi (Riccardo Tisci) is also considering the scope, although he himself has repeatedly said he did not want to give up her job in Givenchy.

It seems that it will be some time before Dior's creative director job falls to anyone.

Behind: for fashion brands, brand image is higher than everything, this is true.

Galiano, now 50, has been the chief designer of Dior for more than 10 years, contributing much to Dior's development.

However, at the very first time, Dior announced that it would temporarily ban the "love". In fact, it wanted to convey the brand's "zero tolerance" attitude towards any racial discrimination.

Facing increasingly fierce market competition, Dior faces a very serious form. As people pay attention to Dior's new leaders, it is prudent to choose new leaders.

Clearly, determining the criteria for selecting successors is a top priority.

However, the successor arrangement is not only to find a suitable new creative director, but also to have a design team that is able to cooperate with the new creative director, so as to ensure that the work is carried out with ease.

The change of the position of creative director is not only the pfer of rights, but also the handover of influence.

In any case, new and old alternation brings many uncertainties to Dior brand.

7 Prada does not deny "Chinese foundry".

In May 2011, when Prada (Prada) was preparing for the listing of Hongkong, a report issued by its sponsors announced the secret of "Prada has many factories in mainland China".

With the successful listing of Prada brand in Hongkong, it has been speculation for the first time that it is regarded as a highly confidential "information on the Chinese foundry industry chain" by luxury brands as the first time to reveal the mystery in the prospectus.

Prada said it had built factories to produce the vast majority of prototypes, most of the samples and some of the finished products, and the rest of the production process was outsourced to external producers.

"By the end of 2011, most of our manufactured goods were produced by external producers."

Behind: it is reported that the output of Prada's external manufacturers has reached 80% of the total product.

In fact, as early as 2009, the global luxury report has revealed that 60% of the international luxury brands own their own production lines in China.

"Made in China" is a dilemma for luxury brands to maintain brand mystique and financial control.

But the industry believes that Prada's mainland China's factory is exposed, and will not affect the issue price of Prada.

Because Prada's "acting factory" is a common phenomenon of luxury goods manufacturers.

Prada's CEO also said that he did not mind letting consumers know that their products were designed in Italy, while others were made in China.

With the rapid growth of luxury goods output and sales volume, the pfer of luxury goods to China is a gradual process of choice.

Many luxury brands usually have some "sub cards" which are relatively cheap and require less workmanship. These "sub cards" were first pferred to China.

Bertelli, chief executive of Prada, said that as long as the quality of products is guaranteed, "Prada manufacturing" should be the same as "made in Italy", which is worthy of fans' trust.

"If the product is produced in Italy, we will mark" made in Italy ", and if it is produced in Turkey, we will also label it honestly.

Of course, we are more concerned about when the luxury brand can be made from "no denying" China to "proactively flaunt" made in China.

8 Lining executives "big shift" behind

In May 24, 2011, two senior executives and a middle-level manager left Lining. The two executives were Lining group vice president and chief market official Shiwei, vice president and chief operating officer Guo Jianxin, general manager Wu Xianyong, general manager of the Department of e-commerce.

Lining's share price fell continuously, and the company issued an urgent announcement.

Personnel changes in the first half of the year were also considered by the industry to be the most serious since the Li Ning Co was founded.

In November 13, 2011, Xu Maochun, chief executive officer of Lining brand, formally left office, the second time Li Ning Co experienced executive turnover during the year.

Behind: it is learnt that with the confirmation of Zhang Xiaoyan, director of the Ministry of public affairs and the chief foreign product officer Xu Maochun and the confirmation of Xu Maochun's resignation message, the number of executives who have gone to the top of the Li Ning Co has reached 5 this year.

The turmoil of Lining's senior management has not ceased since the first half of 2011. Even though Li Ning Co has always claimed that this is a normal personnel change, people seem to feel that there are some serious internal problems in Li Ning Co through this turmoil.

For the two major personnel changes in the year, the industry has speculated that this may be related to the failure of Lining's brand reconstruction.

But experts believe that not all executives who leave their jobs are on the same grounds.

An analysis report of JP Morgan said that in 2011, Lining's annual revenue would go back 13%, and profits would go back 60%, while Anta's revenue would increase by 22% and its profit growth by 15%.

Lining is expected not only to be surpassed by Anta in 2011, but also to catch up with other second-line brands.

On the one hand, we are anxious to challenge Nike and Adidas in the international arena. On the one hand, we cannot afford the driving force of the middle and low end consumer groups in China.

Lining's next serious challenge is not a low level inventory backlog, a sluggish channel and other reasons, but a higher level strategic problem.

The problem of low level means can still be broken, but the decision-making problem at high level may be brought to an end. Lining needs to think about it.

9 fast fashion is falling into "quality gate".

In April 2011, according to the test report released by Beijing consumers' Association, 20 samples were tested in 57 samples, including ZARA, G2000, Guan Qi and G-STAR. All the testing items were not up to the national standard requirements. The main problems existed in fiber content, color fastness, formaldehyde and pH value.

Among them, the fiber content of the 6 samples, including a ZARA brand sample, does not match the measured value, accounting for 10.5% of the total sample.

In that month, in the 3 comparative experiment conducted by Beijing Consumers Association, ZARA products were considered unqualified, while ZARA did not respond explicitly.

In December 2011, the Shanghai Quality Supervision Bureau carried out special supervision and spot checks on the quality of casual wear products produced and sold in Shanghai. It was found that the situation of clothing fiber content inconsistent with the label was still outstanding, including NAUTI-CA, CK JEANS, ZARA, Teenie Weenie and other famous brand products.

According to the relevant standard requirements, the main inspection of casual wear is the use of instructions, fiber content, formaldehyde content, pH value, color fastness to dry friction, color fastness to perspiration, water fastness, decomposable aromatic amine dyes, odor and other items.

Behind: in recent years, ZARA has become a "frequent visitor" in the list of substandard products of industrial and commercial departments and quality inspection departments.

According to incomplete statistics, ZARA has been caught in "quality gate" for at least 7 times since August 2009.

H&M, which is also a fast fashion brand, is also on the "black list".

The expansion is too fast for the industry to think that ZARA is the main reason for repeated problems. Low price plus rapid development result in the inevitable reduction in quality.

After frequent quality incidents, ZARA began to be questioned by the outside world about its quality at home and abroad.

Although its strong advantage lies in supply chain management, its expansion in Asia is too fast, and background management may not keep pace with it. "Even if copying the European set to the Asian region also needs a certain running in period, coupled with speed, cost and other pressures, it is likely that some conditions will be relaxed, and there will be some problems in the level of internal control management."

Another industry believes that the emergence of "virtual door" and the positioning of ZARA also related.

ZARA wants to maintain young, fashionable and quality brands, but the price can not be too high, because most of its consumer groups are college students and young working people, so that the quality of the company may be sacrificed, otherwise the cost of raw materials will definitely increase, leading to price increases.

10 Hermes suffered "endorsement".

In June 21, 2011, a netizen named Sina Baby on Sina micro-blog was very concerned. The 20 year old girl who claimed to be living in a big villa and opened Maserati, when many high-profile pictures of Jocie Guo, the general manager of the Red Cross business, held the expensive expensive Hermes bag appeared in front of the public.

Another thing that happened at the same time was that the popularity of Hermes in the common people increased dramatically, that is to say, the brand, known for its "high price and noble", was "advertised" after the incident.

Before the Jocie Guo incident, perhaps many people knew about LV, but they did not necessarily know that Hermes was more advanced than LV.

Especially in some two or three line cities, because Hermes is only distributing in the first tier cities, the people who know it are limited.

But since Jocie Guo took herm Hermes to show his wealth, herm Hermes has passed through various media to these two or three line cities along with the Jocie Guo incident.

Behind the Jocie Guo incident, the sales of herm herm rose by 7%~10%, according to the World Luxury Association's recent 3 months of monitoring of Hermes sales.

Meanwhile, some changes have taken place in the consumer groups of Hermes.

First, the number of new consumers has increased by about 40%.

Most of the former Hermes consumers came from first tier cities, and now most of the new consumers come from two or three cities that do not have Hermes stores.

In a sense, because of Jocie Guo, Hermes province has made many public relations costs in the two or three tier cities.

So obvious sales promotion, for Hermes may be regarded as "unexpected joy."

Along with Jocie Guo, in addition to sales promotion, there are various labels that are hard to erase.

Rui Chenggang, a CCTV host, launched an award on micro-blog, called "the ten major vulgar luxury brands ranking".

Rui Chenggang said, "these brands are the most representative works of showing off their wealth."