Viewing The Rise Of Fashion Designers From The Perspective Of Stereotactic Scissors: Sudden Changes In Scissors

In the various links of the apparel industry chain, when the position and value of the pre curtain hero is increasingly recognized by the society, the designer behind the scenes has been gradually concerned.

In the interview, a voice spoke of China at present.

In order to meet the development needs of the industry, in April 2010, the China Fashion Designers Association Training Center launched a series of highly targeted high-end professional training courses, such as the high-end research courses, which mainly aim at the needs of the enterprise's chief editor's job and the added value of the research and development version.

In July, in response to the changing trend of men's wear edition, the designers association also invited Japanese menswear design expert Iguchi Xizhen to lecture on advanced design training courses. In addition, it also invited the French ESMOD experts to lecture on the three-dimensional cutting course in view of the demand for improving the modeling design ability of the Enterprise Edition division.

These professional training projects based on the development of garment industry and the needs of brand enterprises have played a strong role in promoting the design and technology upgrading of Chinese garment enterprises in the field of clothing version technology and original design of brand clothing product development.

So what is the role of the fashion designers in Chinese clothing enterprises? What is the difference between the Chinese print masters and the domestic and foreign editions? How are their living conditions? Why does the stereoscopic cutting rise? What is the advantage of the stereotactic cutting? What bottlenecks are the print masters facing with the fashion seeking more and more "fast food"? In the near future, what role should they play in this role?

Plane and stereo coexistence

Accurate to millimeter design

"At present, the print industry in the domestic apparel market is still in its infancy, and it is still a pure technology type industry."

Cai He, the STOGART clothing design studio, told textile and clothing weekly reporters that most of the fashion designers have not really realized the decisive role of creativity and market awareness in the clothing version.

Many of the garment enterprises have only received secondary education, and from the technical workers or sample workers in the factory assembly line, after the simple technical training in the short-term training course of clothing pattern, they began to work in sample making, which would easily lead to the lack of understanding and understanding of the clothing styles in the sample production.

This is a common problem existing in the domestic garment industry, and has become the key to the development of China's garment industry.

The development of the garment industry depends on the R & D capability of the product first. More and more excellent print division teams will strengthen and improve the research and development of the products, so as to increase the market demand and promote the development of the whole industry.

The biggest difference between the print design and the fashion design is that the latter uses an open mind, which needs to express the unique idea of the designer.

And the version design can make the design logic accurate to every millimeter, and use the data to construct beautiful.

For the same part of a garment, different type designers will be very different in choosing data.

Xie Yijun, technical director of Beijing rounddream Clothing & Accessories Co., Ltd., who has been engaged in fashion edition for 23 years, briefed reporters that flat plate making is a process from plane to three-dimensional, from two-dimensional to three-dimensional, and three-dimensional cutting is from three-dimensional to plane.

Stereoscopic cutting can be stereoscopic and visualized, WYSIWYG, but it has higher requirements for stereoscopic cutting of tables and fabrics. After forming, it also needs to be made into a plane version, not only with high cost, but also has certain requirements for the planner's aerial cutting skills.

Plane plate making is mainly based on prototype and formula. Once prototype is confirmed, the success rate of stylized garment plate making is high, and the rate of plate printing is relatively low.

At present, most of the enterprises based on wholesale use this method, but it is difficult to get to the more complex style structure.

The advantage of stereoscopic cutting is the imperfection of plane plate making. The advantage of plane plate making is also the shortage of stereoscopic cutting. The two combinations are the best.

Xu Wenjun, a male fashion designer, told reporters that both planing and stereoscopic cutting are the basis for playing the plate. Whether the designer is good or not is whether he can plate the design intent into a version. This pformation requires the integration of the basic skills and aesthetic standards of the print master and the positioning of the company's products.

For example, in the practice of making a suit, the print master is mainly based on the plane plate making, first making the master edition of each category, and then making the style segmentation on the basis of the master edition.

For now, stereo cutting may be more suitable for women's wear.

For a print master, the most important thing is to have a deep understanding of the principles.

The two complement each other.

Zheng Rong, deputy dean of the school of art and engineering, Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, said in the interview that the plate making method should be chosen according to the actual situation in plate making.

Different styles have different characteristics. Various methods of plate making have their advantages and disadvantages. It can not be very common to say that all styles are only used in a plate making way, or which kind of plate making method is good.

That will lead to misunderstanding and never play a good version.

"In China, plane plate making and stereoscopic cutting are not contradictory, it is a complementary relationship."

Ren Shuxian, Professor of clothing dyeing and finishing department of Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts, said in an interview that "the purpose of plate making is to achieve the design effect in a roundabout way, making the garment more perfect, and not focusing on what kind of method or process to adopt, so long as we can achieve the full intention of design in a limited time."

Yu Jinlong, a distinguished professor at the school of design of China Central Academy of Fine Arts, agrees with the views of the two teachers. He said that these two methods are just the differences between different types of teachers in their working methods. In fact, there is no fixed pattern, no matter whether they are planed or stereotactic, they are all aimed at completing the ideal tailoring of a garment.

The most ideal mode of work is the combination of both, that is, to complement each other, or to test each other, to complete the cutting work with the most beautiful appearance and the most comfortable structure. This is the best method of work.

Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts party secretary Li Dangqi also believes that the two methods of work have their advantages and disadvantages.

The advantage of the plane trimming method is that it can get the sample quickly. The whole process of plate making is more convenient and time saving, but it requires that the print master must have rich practical experience. After several revisions and adjustment, the sample can be perfected gradually and achieve the design effect.

The disadvantages of flat plate making are also obvious. On the one hand, the influence of fabric on the design effect can not be correctly perceived, such as fabric texture, gloss and draping. On the other hand, it is difficult to master some parts of human body, such as different chest size, balance of front and rear body, shoulder slope and so on.

In the fashion, strong fold, elegant style and fabric characteristics are special, flat plate making can not be done in one place, but after repeated modification, it is best to choose a three-dimensional cutting method to deal with.

The advantage of the stereoscopic cutting method is that there are many changeable factors in the process of plate making, such as the fabric's denaturation, pleat and elegant degree.

The combination of stereoscopic cutting, edge observation and edge trimming is the best way to deal with these factors.

Difference between domestic and international editions

Because of the different geographical environment and local culture, both domestic and international versions have their own characteristics.

The characteristics of the foreign version are that the difference between the brand and the brand version is obvious. Each brand has its own brand version style.

For example, the Dior, known as the master of lines, has a very tight waist and a large exaggeration of the hem. It looks like a blooming flower, which perfectly outlines the beautiful lines of the female body.

And rough, free Diesel, in the rough part of the processing process, the hard straight sleeve processing more embodies the strong side of women, the processing of the front, so that the effect of opening up more free and easy.

Most of the domestic editions are relatively concise, focusing on the assurance of internal structure.

Due to the climatic factors of the north and south, the seasonal climate characteristics of the north and South have their own characteristics.

For example, in the PRD region, the winter is shorter and the summer is longer. The printer is better at the summer clothing version, especially in the pattern and technology of the knitted sweater.

The north is clear in four seasons and cold in winter, and Northern print masters are better at patterns in winter.