Trend Front Chinese Clothing

"You wear a Tang suit! Your whole family is dressed in Tang costume!"

In the past few years, when all China was holding up Tang costume, some people changed the famous commentator Yan Jun's remarks, and ironically satirize the popularity of the Tang costume.

At that time, I also wrote an article called "Tang Zhuang Da Bu Wan", which talked about: "national culture anemia is a very complex chronic disease, what is needed is day by day, year after year, the gradual adjustment of the 1 principles, instead of relying on a few big bolus to rely on a few big pills to get twice the result with half the effort."

This Tang Zhuang Da Bu Wan is facing the national culture anaemia, or fashion epilepsy, or the mixed diseases of these two, sometimes it is really hard to say... "

A few years later, the world was in a cold state.

People who are slightly more fashionable tend to talk about the color change of Tang costume.

Many clothing brands no longer take the Tang costume as a gimmick to sell, but rather change the word "Chinese".

Many of our original Tang costumes have been mixed up in the work clothes of hotel and hotel attendants.

Or, Tang costume has already completed its two yuan differentiation process.

Compared with the arrogance of the Tang costume, the small-scale fashion of Hanfu seems to have changed the context.

A lot of mainstream words such as government, experts, designers and so on are missing. The driving force of Hanfu seems to come mainly from the people.

It is said that the first wearer who attracted everyone's attention is actually a middle-aged electrician.

And the important tool of Hanfu communication has also been pferred from the mainstream media to the Internet.

In the Internet, some Chinese forums and websites are the most important positions for lovers to make speeches and exchange skills.

In contrast, the major portals and cultural fashion magazines are cautious.

To a certain extent, it can be seen that the folk characteristics of Hanfu are popular.

In a certain way, in the popularity of Hanfu, there is a lack of thrust, which further deepens the small range characteristics of Hanfu.

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Thrust is business.

In a commercial society, perhaps only when a concept is pformed into business opportunity can it become the mainstream.

In those days, Tang costume became popular. Besides the promotion of public opinion, the most important thing was the participation of large number of garment enterprises.

I know a company that once made a Tang costume. Since 2001, the original business is mainly Qipao, with annual sales of only about ten million yuan.

All the industry turned into Tang suits and sold for about twenty million RMB a month at the best time.

Such brands are numerous in the market of that year.

The place where you can buy Hanfu today, except for a few street shops, may be the virtual shop of net soil.

I searched a few days ago on Taobao.

Input "Hanfu", you can find six hundred messages; enter "Tang suit", you can find two hundred; and enter "wedding dress", it is more than 160000.

Based on this situation, I wonder if I can infer the following information:

1. the market space of Hanfu is not large.

2. the main selling channels of Hanfu are in the network, and they are all small workshops.

3. even in the world's largest Hanfu sales platform, the number of terminals is extremely limited.

4. the Tang costume has changed its name and entered the high end. Some brands have even been placed in top stores, and they have already begun to quit small workshops and Internet sales.

The sale stage.

Or to put it this way, from the commercial point of view, the Hanfang market is still at a very early stage of operation, let alone entering the stage of brand management.

Of course, this does not mean that it is a bad thing.

To some extent, the overflowing of Tang costume and its culture has been damaged by excessive commercial development.

But Hanfu will never go back to the same mistake, because Hanfu is estranged from the mainstream lifestyle of this era, whether from its wearability or deep planting of its cultural genes.

This is not the excitement of businesses.

Moreover, for most people, Hanfu is really too heavy.

This is not a physical weight concept. Rather, it is actually a very systematic project, such as environment, etiquette, language and accessories. I have seen many people wear Han clothes and Adidas and Nike on their feet, but clothing is actually only one of them.

In this system, it is a good thing to choose a Chinese suit only to meet the taste and cultural feelings of the individual, and there is no need to blame anyone else.

After all, in this pluralistic culture, everyone has his own freedom.

But if we drag it to the narrow patriotic and revival of Han culture, let the Han clothes and other costumes be strongly antagonistic.

The wrong or wrong questions will produce absurd and foolish things.

Clothing is divorced from aesthetics, and it is hanging on to the mass movement. This is also common in the history of clothing.

There is a big park near my house. The trees are good and the water is good.

Every sunny day, you can always see a small group of wedding photos in twos and threes.

I like to see that those brides who wear big wedding gowns are walking along the busy road. It's an interesting sight.

When the passers-by saw it, he took aim at both eyes and hurried away as if nothing had happened.

This scene sometimes reminds me of Hanfu.

There are many similarities between the two in today's context.

I would even think that even if Hanfu is popularized to the extreme in the future, it may be just like the wedding dress (of course, not just for wedding occasions).

Die hard fans, who have many Hanfu, often talk about Japanese kimono.

But you know, even in Japan, where traditional culture is very well preserved, kimono is not a daily dress.

The change of modern life to people's life style is irreversible. This makes the kimono only exist in a specific situation as a historical memory.

Ordinary people wear kimono to the vegetable market, and they are also regarded as heterogeneous.

Moreover, the price of kimono in Japan is staggering.

Because the fabric, craft and so on are treated as an art.

In my opinion, the most precious wealth left behind by the prevailing Tang costume is the re excavation of traditional fabrics and traditional crafts.

Although the Tang costume itself has been pformed, these skills have been deeply pplanted into other Chinese costume designs and productions.

To a certain extent, it also affected the high-end trend of Chinese clothing.

I am glad to see that Hanfu is one of the main parts of this book, not the empty feelings and the big cultural argument.

In the face of solid skills, many cultural games under the banner of culture are illusory.

It is hard for me to imagine how much cultural and emotional weight a Chinese costume made of quality materials and rough technology can bear.

The lack of skills relies on the slogan of a so-called Hanfu.

And when slogans are gradually fading away, Hanfu will also become a cheap work clothes for hotels.

This is the creation of people, anxious not to blame.

It is better to talk less about culture than to study craft.

Liu Jiao

December 2007

Excerpts from Hanfu (Qingdao publishing house January 2008 First Edition)